AMPHIBIAN CARE GUIDES
Amphibians — different rules than reptiles.
Amphibians breathe through their skin. That single fact changes nearly every husbandry consideration: water quality matters as much as air quality, hands carry chemicals that harm them, and minor mistakes that reptiles forgive can be lethal for amphibians. We cover the differences honestly.
Choose your amphibian
Axolotl
The famous "walking fish" — actually a fully-aquatic salamander that retains larval features throughout life. Booming popularity. Hardy with proper water quality; lethal if you treat them like fish.
Open the axolotl guide →
White's Tree Frog
Sometimes called "dumpy tree frog" — large, chunky, calm, and one of the best beginner frogs. Tolerant of more handling than most amphibians and forgiving of moderate husbandry.
Open the White's tree frog guide →What amphibians need (the big differences from reptiles)
- Don't handle them with bare hands. Soaps, lotions, and oils on human skin damage amphibian skin. Wet, powder-free nitrile gloves only when handling is necessary — and minimize necessity.
- Water quality matters enormously. Use dechlorinated water (Prime, ReptiSafe, or aged 24 hours). Tap water with chloramine kills aquatic amphibians within hours.
- Cooler temperatures than most reptiles. Many popular pet amphibians need 60-75°F, not basking heat. Axolotls die above 75°F.
- UVB isn't always needed. Most popular amphibians don't require UVB (axolotls definitely don't). Some tropical species benefit from low-output UVB.
- Diet is mostly live insects (terrestrial) or appropriately-sized animal protein (aquatic). Variety matters as much as for reptiles.
- Quarantine new arrivals. Chytridiomycosis is the leading driver of global amphibian decline. Buy from reputable captive-bred sources only.